It doesn't matter what music you mix there's a category for everyone call Suzy Parish on 0171-370
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It doesn't matter what music you mix, there's a category for everyone (call Suzy Parish on 0171-370 8299).While the amateurs battle it out, the pro DJs will try to set a world record for a non-stop live mix. When Jacob's Creek Riesling was launched in 1991 in a Germanic flute, sales were sluggish. However, following the introduction of the Bordeaux bottle in 1994, they trebled overnight, and have since climbed to 120,000 cases. According to Peter Carr of Caxton Tower, the importer of Jacob's Creek: "Riesling is still only 10 per cent of the Jacob's Creek brand [the Semillon/ Chardonnay is the best-seller], but we're a fair way to cracking it."But how do the Big Three stack up? The 1997 Penfolds Bin 202 Riesling, South Australia, pounds 3.99, widely available, tastes the driest and zingiest. Its attractively fragrant fruitiness, which comes from high-grade grapes, mainly from the Clare and Eden Valleys, is balanced by a crisp, limey acidity that makes it the best partner for the Thai-style cuisine which suits Riesling so well.
The 1997 Jacob's Creek Dry Riesling, pounds 4.59, widely available, has Riesling's hallmark fragrance, but is softer and fruitier than the Penfolds, making it a reliable aperitif or party white, while the 1997 Hardy's Nottage Hill Dry Australian Riesling, pounds 4.99, Victoria Wine, is noticeably more opulent. Yet, for sheer verve, concentration and zest at under a fiver, Wynn's 1996 Coonawarra Riesling, pounds 4.99 (Sainsbury's Wine Cellar, Berkeley Wines, Majestic, Oddbins), outdoes all three.But if you're prepared to venture over pounds 5, you're more likely to come across a Riesling whose personality says something about its regional origins and climatic variations. Much of this has to do with the success of the Big Three - Penfolds, BRL-Hardy and Orlando - in retargeting the wine to overcome its image problem. "People associate Riesling with something sulphurous, foul, Germanic and above all sweet," says Tidy.
For this reason, the Big Three have worked hard on changing the look of their Rieslings. According to Kate Blazey of Hardy's, research indicated that the drier, Aussie-style Riesling would sell better in a Bordeaux bottle in paler green, as the more traditional bottle-green flute suggested a sweeter Germanic style.Thus, to differentiate it from German Riesling, and, worse still, from Liebfraumilch, BRL-Hardy and Jacob's Creek have utilised Bordeaux bottles, while Penfolds has put its Rawson's Retreat Bin 202 into a Burgundy bottle.The repackaging proved a success. Now, Tidy thinks Europe could follow - "But there's a lot of work to do first." Sales of Riesling, most of it Australasian, rose by 30 per cent at Thresher last year and now account for 8 per cent of all its white varietal sales - still a poor relation of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but growing richer. If there is an element of wishful thinking on Tidy's part, Riesling has at least made progress. Stir in the bicarbonate of soda, which will foam up, and allow to cool.Heat the oven to 170C (fan oven)/180C (electric oven)/350F/Gas 4, and butter a 20cm cake tin with a removable base. Whisk the butter in a food processor or electric mixer and slowly add the sugar Beat in the eggs Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and spices. Combine the date, butter and flour mixture in a large bowl and add the walnuts and orange zest. Spoon the cake mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 45-55 minutes until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean Run a knife around the edge of the cake to loosen it.
Just as it cools (although it will keep for several days in an airtight container), dust it with icing sugar and a dollop of creme fraiche. The revival of the Riesling grape has been rumoured for so long that you could be almos be forgiven for losing interest. If you had, though, you might have missed something, for, according to Kim Tidy at Thresher, it actually happened last year, with Australian and New Zealand Riesling at the forefront. Turn the cake out of its tin and eat just as it is, cool, about 45-60 minutes out of the oven.
It can at a pinch be reheated for about 20 minutes in the oven, wrapped in foil,Cape Brandy Pudding, serves 6This is a traditional South African pudding, a sticky date-and-walnut cake eaten with lots of cream. I'm not quite sure where the brandy comes into it, although a splash in the cream wouldn't go amiss.250g chopped dates250ml water1 tsp bicarbonate of soda125g unsalted butter, softened200g light muscovado sugar2 large eggs240g plain flour1 tsp baking powder12 tsp sea salt1 tsp ground cinnamon12 tsp ground ginger14 tsp ground nutmeg75g chopped walnuts1 tsp finely grated orange zestto serveicing sugar, creme fraichePlace the dates and water in a small saucepan, bring to the boil, then remove from the heat. The top should sound hollow when tapped, and all the butter will have been absorbed. Form the dough into a ball and place in a buttered bowl, turning it to coat it in the butter.


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